Arrived in Lusaka at 3 am, boarded the bus bound for Lilongwe at 4:00 am, because the bus was scheduled to leave at 5am. After some concern that the baggage compartment was overfull - and due to Rosies story about bags falling out of a hold on the same route, we decided to buy a spare seat and place our packs on it. After waiting and waiting while, approximately thirty hawkers came through the bus trying to sell every thing from food to gloves and purses and another 15 people squashed onto the bus, plus general merchandise being stowed where there appeared to be no room, we finally set off at 6:15am. At this stage people were still finding there seats, and it became obvious that the bus was over sold, and the conductor wanted to use our seat with our packs on it. So it became apparent that departure time was a nominal thing, and the bus would depart when it was full, no matter what the time.
We became concerned that the Bus driver was going like a bat out of hell down hill and slow uphill. If he had not known the camber of the road well we could well have rolled. During this time we passed a petrol tanker twice going down hill only to be passed again on the uphill stretches.
About mid morning the bus stopped and the passengers disembarked for fresh food cooked on the road side including chicken, fish, tomatoes, and chips - food hygiene was questionable, due to limited water supply so Jane and I went on a diet. Not much further down the road we stopped again, this time however it was the bus that was taking a leek of engine coolant. After about one hour the driver and mechanic - don't know what his other role was, but he was now wearing a blue uniform, finally decided that they had the leak under control. Jane was one of the last on the bus and had asked the driver 'how long to the border' to which he replied 'too far'. Then just up the road the bus stopped again, fortunately it was just to top up there jerry cans with water.
After almost cooking the engine, the driver slowed down. Now we were left guessing whether we would make the border crossing before nightfall. Would we get stranded in Zambia at the border.
The day has also been notable as its the first bus trip that we have been on where all the toilet stops are in the bush.
After a very long day, patience was wearing thin, Kobs took one hour at Kapata to have passages disembark, put new passengers on. There main focus appeared to be unloading the cargo that was stored under nearly every seat. Photo shows a mattress being transported in the back of the bus. Then when that was finished they serviced the engine while the passengers waited on board.
Finally arrived in Lilongwe at 8pm. The twelve hour trip had turned into 14 hours, not sure how much of the final journey was extended by the locals being dropped off at home.
At last able to give Rosie a big hug! Finished our day with a meal out with Rosie and her fellow volunteers- great to hear some of their stories and experiences. A relaxing ending to quite a challenging day.
